French Soul in the Heart of Wynwood: A Review of Pastis Miami

Created by restaurateurs Keith McNally and Stephen Starr, Pastis is modeled on the kind of bustling Parisian bistro where the setting is as much a part of the experience as the food.

The transition begins at the entrance, where a red-brick wall and garden terrace create a distinct separation from the streets of Wynwood. The terrace functions as an extension of the restaurant, with full bar and dining service, and leads naturally into the main dining room.

Inside, off-white mosaic floors appear softened by years of imagined footsteps. Antique gold-framed mirrors, a substantial bar and simple wooden tables and chairs contribute to an old-world atmosphere reminiscent of a Parisian brasserie.

During the day, a row of doors along the dining room allows natural light to fill the space. After sunset, the mood changes as warm lighting creates a more intimate setting.

The menu stays close to French classics, with dishes such as Salade Niçoise ($29), French onion soup, escargots and Croque Monsieur ($22) or Croque Madame ($24). A plat du jour or dish of the day adds another traditional element to the menu.

Pastis also participates in Miami Spice Restaurant Months, which runs through September, offering specially priced three-course lunch, brunch and dinner menus ranging from $40 to $65.

Service is attentive without being intrusive. The staff is familiar with the menu and willing to explain dishes or accommodate specific dietary needs, making the experience accessible even to diners less familiar with traditional French cuisine.

Among the appetizers, the pâté de campagne ($17) and foie gras parfait ($17) offer two distinctly French introductions to the meal. Both pair naturally with a crisp Chablis. The steak tartare ($24), more commonly associated with a main course in France, is served here as an appetizer.

Enjoy the video recap about Pastis Miami here.

Another option takes a less traditional route: crispy fried artichokes with garlic aioli ($19). The artichokes arrive with a delicate crunch and a savory garlic accompaniment that makes them particularly appealing as a lighter start.

The entrées continue the French theme with choices such as a Gruyère omelette with fine herbs ($18), crêpe complète ($23), moules frites ($29) and artichokes à la barigoule ($28). The latter is a classic Provençal preparation in which young artichokes are braised with white wine, garlic, carrots and onions.

Two pasta dishes provide a more familiar alternative for younger diners or anyone looking for something outside the traditional French repertoire.

But the dish that deserves special attention is the confit de canard, or duck confit ($43).

The duck is slow-cooked until tender, with the skin finished to a crisp texture. It is served with smashed, crispy potatoes and a green salad, accompanied by a deeply flavored pan sauce. The sauce combines the richness of the duck with the acidity of cherry vinegar, creating a balance that cuts through the richness of the meat.

It is the kind of sauce that calls for a piece of bread. Leaving any behind would be a mistake.

To finish, you can opt for a traditional French cheese course like many French do or indulge in classic sweets: profiteroles ($17), citron givré lemon sorbet ($11), dark chocolate mousse ($15) or vanilla bean crème brûlée ($16).

And there is one final ritual worth observing: a glass of pastis, the anise- and licorice-flavored French apéritif that gives the restaurant its name.

Sipped slowly at the end of the meal, it provides an appropriate conclusion to an experience designed to transport diners, if only for a few hours, from Wynwood to the atmosphere of a Parisian bistro.

Pastis
380 NW 26th Street, Miam
(305) 686-3050

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